‘I’ve been a Pagan Witch since I was 5 and I’ve been sent to guard the magic square’ said the guy next to me, as I sat cross-legged in a small but perfectly traditional apartment in the heart of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter. I looked around at everyone else’s expressions but they didn’t flinch. Hmm …

Standing by an ATM, I realised that the man stood behind me casually has a big chunky metal gun shoved down the front of his jeans. This was my first taste of Guatemala. His yellow-shirted fat belly nearly concealed it but he almost definitely wasn’t trying to hide this weapon. I hit cancel as …