I just didn’t get Bali the first or even second time round, it wasn’t for me but something magical happened the third time and everything just slotted into place. I’m so pleased I didn’t give up on it and went back to surf in Canggu.
There’s something massively sexy and glamorous about surfing and that’s not just the surfers, but the thrill of riding the beast of the sea. Soaking up its energy whilst having utmost respect for its power. Completely unlike diving, where you feel at one with the life below, so calm and serene, surfing feels like you’re taunting the waves and challenging it to take you on a journey.
I was lucky to have the best surf guide, a Balinese dude that had been surfing for years. He found my wipe outs funny and every time I dragged myself back to the line-up in the sea he coached me on why I’d taken a tumble. At times it was exhausting and after day 1 my ribs hurt like hell. Completely covered in bruises and scrapes, but absolutely addictive. I caught a decent wave on the first day and from that moment I was hooked.
I stayed at the Chillhouse, all geared up for surfing, yoga, massage and relaxation. I can’t recommend it enough and doubt I’d have got off to such a good start without the team there. It seems to attract a really cool bunch of people too, unless I was just incredibly lucky!
I learnt enough to take my few skills out into the big wide surfing world. I can’t get enough of the ocean and all it has to offer, there’s no way I can go back to living in a land locked city now.