‘I’ve been a Pagan Witch since I was 5 and I’ve been sent to guard the magic square’ said the guy next to me, as I sat cross-legged in a small but perfectly traditional apartment in the heart of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter. I looked around at everyone else’s expressions but they didn’t flinch. Hmm, Read More

Stood at an ATM and gradually realising that the man stood behind me casually has a big chunky metal gun shoved down the front of his jeans was my first taste of Guatemala. His yellow shirted fat belly nearly concealed it but he almost definitely wasn’t trying to hide this weapon. I hit cancel, Read More